Alexander Appels, a member of SBD, is one of the faces behind Prism-A, the Antwerp brand specializing in colored diamonds. Prism-A aims to become a benchmark in fancy colored diamonds, focusing resolutely on quality, study, and craftsmanship. The name was not chosen by chance: "The A in Prism-A stands for Antwerp. That's a heritage we can be proud of and that we must continue to emphasize," Alexander explains.
From a young age, Alexander was fascinated by 3D and puzzles. "I loved taking things apart and rebuilding them. That spatial thinking has always captivated me," he says. This interest later led him to a product development study program, where technology and creativity converge. About twenty years ago, he came into contact with the diamond industry when he took a test as a job applicant with Paul Van der Steen, vice-chairman of SBD and then-manager of Matrix. "That was my first real introduction to diamonds. From that moment on, things moved quickly."
At Matrix, Alexander had the opportunity to receive in-depth diamond training. "Paul taught me the technical side, Ziad the commercial side. That combination has shaped my entire career." To this day, he remains active in both worlds: he participates in tenders, works as a valuator, and simultaneously monitors the technical progress of the stones with diamond polishers. "That's a rather unique journey. In the past, diamonds were primarily a family story, a career passed down from generation to generation. That wasn't the case for me, but I'm trying to write my own unique story. Something that isn't always easy."
Although Matrix primarily focused on high-quality white diamonds, Alexander became increasingly fascinated by colored diamonds. Fancy colors require incredibly strong 3D and visual insight. You not only need to be able to see how the cut model is positioned in the rough stone, but you also have to consider the relationship between the angular slopes and directions of the cut diamond so that the light is optimally utilized to bring out the best possible color. And all of that before you even start cutting. That challenge grew into his passion and specialization. He began focusing on rough evaluation and estimating the potential of rough diamonds. "Every stone is a puzzle that you have to solve mentally beforehand."
In 2018, Alexander started working as an independent consultant under the name Chroma Diamonds Consulting, but he also remained closely involved in monitoring stones during the processing process. "Otherwise, it feels like you're buying a puzzle but not allowed to assemble it yourself," he says with a laugh.
Our ultimate goal? For a consumer in the US to know: this diamond was cut and polished in Antwerp at Prism-A.
With Prism-A, Alexander and Nick Willems (read the interview with Nick Willems in the previous edition of the newsletter) aim to build a true brand. Their collaboration combines two complementary strengths: Nick’s years of tradition and experience in diamond cutting, and Alexander’s recognized expertise in colored diamonds. “We focus on fancy colored diamonds, exceptional white diamonds, and special shapes. But above all, we want to tell a story.” Prism-A strongly embraces the mine-to-finger concept, with particular attention to the cutting process. “That’s precisely the step where the greatest added value is created, but it often remains underemphasized in storytelling. Our ultimate goal? For a consumer in the US to know: this diamond was cut and polished in Antwerp at Prism-A.”
With a trained eye and advanced technology, Prism-A evaluates each stone before cutting begins. By using helium and galaxy files for precise planning and DiamCalc to optimize color potential, a strong foundation is laid for the diamond’s further development. The cutting is done with the highest degree of expertise and precision, with every step strictly controlled. "Even the smallest adjustment can have a huge impact on the appearance and value of a stone." Repolishing is also part of the service. "We study the potential of a cut diamond and, as it were, give it a new life."
Alexander has a nuanced view of lab-grown diamonds. "Many colleagues are strongly opposed to them and consider them inferior, but from a scientific standpoint, it's actually impressive." He continues: "A process that takes millions of years in nature can now be imitated by machines in a few weeks. That in itself is impressive and proves what humans are capable of." At the same time, he acknowledges that lab-grown diamonds are taking away a large share of the market, but he remains convinced of the intrinsic value of natural diamonds. "Every natural diamond is a unique work of art from the earth, and that's precisely why it will retain its value. It's up to us to tell the story, from origin to polish, to emphasize this."
As a member of Young Diamantaires, Alexander draws a great deal of energy from connecting with the younger generation in the sector. "It's remarkable to see how many young people are active in the diamond industry worldwide. Despite all the challenges, there's a tremendous amount of positivity." His message is therefore clear: "Keeping faith in the diamond industry is essential." He encourages SBD to continue organizing innovation events and encourages other members to actively participate. "Innovation and collaboration are crucial to keep our sector future-oriented."
